Spring has sprung

Four Koa seeds have sprouted. Unfortunately, I doubt one of them will make it. Something got into the seed and ate the germ. The cotyledons are up but there are no true leaves growing between them. Unless it can regenerate a new growth point, it won't be around very long. This may also account for my poor germination rate. According to the instructions I found for growing Koa, I expected over 80% of the seed to sprout. Perhaps many had unseen bug bites. I would have expected seeds that had been penetrated to swell during the initial bleach soak (five did, but none of these have sprouted).

One of the other seedlings had some damage as well. One cotyledon got a little munched, but I see some true leaves developing, so there's hope. The last two look very healthy. I've already potted one up into a gallon container and will get to the other one shortly. I ran out of potting mix.

This time I bought some very cheap organic "potting mix" that appears to be mostly composted manure. I'm mixing it half and half with Miracle-Gro tree and shrub. This is supposed to be mixed with natural soil as an amendment. This other potting mix is so dense, it might as well be dirt. I'll post if there's a difference in growth of the Koa trees.

In my last post I neglected to mention my Kava Kava plant (Piper methysticum). It has been deteriorating all winter and looks to be dying. I may have taken it back out to the sunroom too early. It hates the cold.

My pepper plant (Piper nigrum) hates the cold, too, but it (finally!) has grown two new shoots at the base. I feel a bit more confident about its survival, now.

My Jamaican Red dwarf banana tree has sprouted two babies. One is uncurling its first real leaf; the other is still only an inch tall. I'll cut them off from mama and pot them on their own in the coming weeks.

Not so happy...

In my last post, I commented on the plants that seem happy to grow in my sunroom. Unfortunately, not all my plants are thriving. For instance, even though my Cacao trees are adding new leaves, these are smaller than on previous flushes. Older leaves have brown tips. My chocolate trees are not attractive houseplants. My pygmy date palms have gone dormant. I see no new growth at all. My coconut palm died.

I have mixed results on the betel palms. One is adding a new leaf, the other seems iffy.

The results are in on my live oak experiment. I brought 25 acorns from Florida last November in sandwich bags. Half came off a sand live oak, half from a regular live oak. Unfortunately, all of the acorns sprouted before I could get them planted. Once I got home, I planted them in plastic cups filled with a mixture of half bagged play sand and half Miracle-Gro moisture control potting mix. Four of the sand live oaks sprouted, only one of the regular kind did. The remaining roots damped off.

The leaves are quite different on the two varieties. The sand live oak leaves are dark green, thick, and rounded; the live oak leaves are reddish green, elongated, and have more pronounced points.

I have acquired a bag full of plants and a box of seeds from Hawai'i. All were either preinspected and certified for export to the mainland, or were dried seeds that I had inspected by the Hawai'i Department of Agriculture. The HDoA on Maui is very near the Kahului Airport, but as of now, there is no sign visible from the road leading to the airport. There is a sign to some Department of Defense building. Perhaps the easiest directions start with 1) circle the airport; at the point it becomes a two-way road (rather than a one-way loop- -you are now headed away from the airport toward Kahalui) 2) turn left at the second left 3) make an immediate left onto unmarked Mua Street 4) The Department of Agriculture is in the first building on your left that faces Mua Street 5) go through the double doors on the left side of the building. From the Kahalui (toward the airport) direction, if you get to the T-Shirt Factory building (on the OTHER side of the street) you have gone too far.

Remember these very important items: A) Your seeds must be dry. There can be no pulp, pod, or greens stuck to your seeds. B) Bring your own box. You can buy boxes at the Post Office (or use the free ones if you ship your seeds priority mail) C) They will X-ray your plants and seeds at the airport at least twice. Grit your teeth and bear it.

The first seeds I planted are koa (Acacia koa). I soaked them overnight in a weak bleach solution in an effort to kill any fungi present. This does not harm intact koa seeds because they are quite waterproof. I scarified my seeds with pinch-style fingernail clippers. I tried to nip a tiny hole in the tip of each seed on the far end from where the seed had attached to the pod. Sometimes the seed coat cracked and exposed a bit of the inner seed itself. Either way, after soaking for another 24 hours, the seeds swelled up to three times their original size. This is expected and normal. Yesterday, I planted them into Jiffy seed starting mix in peat pots.

Today I planted 20 autograph tree (Clusia rosea) seeds. According to www.instanthawaii.com this is an invasive species. It might survive here indoors, but outdoors, I'm sure it would freeze. This tree bears a tough skinned green fruit. When the fruit is ripe it bursts open from the bottom in a star pattern. This exposes several cells of bright orange pulp. The pulp contains small (2x2x4mm) yellow seeds. Stripping the pulp from the seeds is not easy, but a sharp knife helps. I suspect the orange pulp is very tasty to birds.

More on my Hawai'i plants and seeds later.

Happy to Be Here

We've had several waves of freezing temperatures outdoors. My sunroom regularly dips into the 50's (deg.F) and sometimes into the 40's at night. Some of my plants either don't care or have been close enough to the heater to shrug off the cold.

The Allspice tree is actively growing. The small red leaves are new. There are several growth tips. Allspice is one of the plants that seems to grow in "flushes". It grows several new leaves all at once then rests for a while.

Ignore the bright red spot at the bottom. That's a petal from an impatients. The small leaved plants at the base are Winter Savory.

The Banana is growing the next new leaf before the previous one has unfurled completely. The strawberries sharing this pot are making fruit. Both are clearly happy.

I'm sure I left the Cinnamon tree out too late last fall. It got damaged and didn't show it right away. Cinnamon is definitely one that grows in flushes, and the last one or two got harmed by the frost. The new leaf in the photo has dark veins as compared to the more mature leaf. Any stem or vein still growing got bit. I've lost some tip leaves and upper stems.

So I thought my Cinnamon was barely tolerating life in a temperate zone. That is until yesterday when I found what appear to be blooms on a couple of stems!

Go figure. Now this is not to say the plant has made a flush of leaves since the frostbite, not one. But I didn't expect it to bloom here.








The cardamom plants are unfurling new leaves. I suppose they are as happy as they ever get here. I've never had a cardamom to flower. I wonder if this has more to do with keeping the plants in pots or the climate. The leaves smell good when crushed, but I never get seeds or pods.

My coffee trees and pygmy date palms are growing new leaves slowly. The bay is leafing at every tip. The piper betel is growing slowly, and one betel palm is adding a frond. The acacia will need a trim soon.

That rounds out the census of happy customers.

Merry Christmas!

Here's a few snapshots of one of my clove sprouts.

Banana (Musa genus)

This is my second banana tree. I had my first when I was in college. There is a reason this was the first plant to be domesticated. Except for frost, they are nearly impossible to kill. Years ago, a Knoxville herb nursery had a large banana tree growing in the ground inside the greenhouse. As I recall, he gave me one of the shoots growing from the base of the tree.

The shoot was about six inches long but had no roots at all. The nursery owner said to plant it and keep it moist. I did and put it in my apartment window. After a month, the shoot looked like it was quite dead, possibly rotten. After two months, it leafed out. I was astounded. By the time I graduated, it was over four feet tall. Unfortunately, I could not fit it into my car when I moved home, so I left it at my fraternity house. They left it out in the yard where it froze.

Now I have a Jamaican red dwarf banana. When I received this shoot, it was already rooted in a tiny pot. It had a couple of leaves smaller than my hand. Now it has nine leaves. The largest is about eight inches wide and nearly two feet long. (As the lower leaves wither, I remove them down to the base.)

Banana leaves sprout from the center of the plant tightly rolled. Once the leaf has emerged, it unrolls. Alternate leaves grow almost opposite each other, offset from the leaves below. As you view the plant from the top, each pair of leaves is rotated about 45 degrees counterclockwise from the pair below.

My banana leaves "sweat" along the edges. When my plants were still outside, I thought this was merely dew. Although it is now inside the sunroom for the winter, it still drips water from the edges. Obviously, this is not dew. I don't believe it is a response to dry air because both summer and sunroom have plenty of humidity.

I planted a pair of everbearing strawberries in the 20 inch diameter pot as companion plants for the banana. I don't think they will form a symbiotic relationship, but I decided the two fruits somehow belonged together.

Late last spring, I bought Miracle-Gro organic topsoil to fill my large pots, mistaking it for potting mix. This stuff is intended to be an amendment for natural soil. Before I could replace it with something more suitable for container gardening, the banana sank a taproot into this stuff. I decided that if it liked that soil so well, I'd leave it there when I transplanted. Since then I've added some organic blood meal, but that's about it. It seems perfectly happy.

I hope to see both strawberries and bananas next year.

Boswellia sacra (Frankincense)

I'd been watching Frankincense plants on eBay for some time. Usually they cost $100 or more. Then one particular seller offered six at once for $25 each plus shipping. For the first time I thought the price was reasonable.

I was having real difficulty resisting the urge to buy one when my little brother called wanting a hint for a Christmas present....

He got a big hint. I got a new plant. It arrived yesterday. I am delighted.

According to the item description, I'm to expect the leaves to fall off over the next few days. The plant does this when it is disturbed in order to conserve energy to its trunk and roots. I'd say being yanked out of your pot, having your roots wrapped in a paper towel, getting stuffed into a box for a couple of days, counts as disturbance. Given moisture and warmth, it is supposed to bud out again.

I got to it almost as soon as the mail carrier dropped it off. Better yet, the outdoor temperature that afternoon was in the low 60's deg. F.--just about perfect. I opened the box immediately, loosened the stuffing, and showed the neighbors my new plant. Once I got it inside, I misted it and the paper-towel-wrapped roots with water. Later that evening I potted it into the gallon container pictured. It spent last night indoors on the same heating mat as my clove seedlings. Once my sunroom warmed into the 70's deg. F. this morning, I took it out there. It was an overcast day, so I put it in full whatever-sun-there-was. Tonight I brought it back indoors for the heat mat.

I used Perfect Gardener Potting Mix from Wal-Mart since it was the loosest, fastest draining soil I had on hand. This is the type of medium the eBay seller recommended. I watered it well, then added a couple of pinches of Espoma Bio-tone Starter Plus. The label says this fertilizer is all natural, but more importantly, it contains mycorrhizae and beneficial bacteria. These fungi seek plant roots and live with them in a symbiotic relationship.

One clove plant has formed its first pair of true leaves. They are greenish orange and tiny. Number two is developing leaf buds, and number three still has bright red nubs. No sign of progress in number four, but, as I said, I'm not holding my breath. I need a closeup lens so I can get some in-focus shots of these guys.

Clove (Syzygium aromaticum) cultivation

This is the first time I've ever tried to grow cloves, so take any advice here with a small Siberian salt mine. In fact, this post may point out some things not to do. If you are interested in growing clove trees, read on. If not, skip to the next blog.

I bought my clove seeds over the Internet directly from Seeds Hawaii Inc., but the company now sells on eBay (as of the date of this post). The minimum order is 50 seeds. I needed all of them.

I was told the first seeds matured in early November. (The season is short. Check the website for availability.) My seeds were shipped USPS Priority November 10 and arrived on November 13, within the three days you expect from Priority Mail. My mail is delivered to a metal box at the street usually just before 2:00 pm. I picked up the mail that day about 4:00 pm. The high temperature Nov. 13 was in the mid 40's (deg. F.). By the time I got the package open, I found more than half of the seeds had deteriorated.

Clove seeds don't have an outer seed coat. They consist of a pair of cotyledons and a radicle. This radicle, or embryonic root, appears to be the most tender part. Disturb it and the seed is a goner. More than half of the seeds were entirely chocolate brown upon arrival. More than half of the seeds with green cotyledons had a brown radicle. I believe all of these seeds were DOAs.

I bought a professional grade 22 inch by 22 inch heat mat and thermostat. I bought a Jiffy brand Seed Starter Greenhouse measuring about 11 by 21 inches. I filled the 50 peat pots with Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix level with the top of each pot. I used my kitchen sink sprayer to moisten the potting mix with warm water. Our water is from a well and is quite hard, lots of lime. The soil surface was wet enough to clump together. I used a butter knife to make a depression in the surface and dropped each seed in, radicle down. I buried each seed with between a half and a quarter of the seed top showing. I sprayed the bed with more warm water to firm the seeds in place. I put the heat mat on the floor and the mini greenhouse squarely on one half of the mat. I mounted the thermostat probe level with the surface of the potting mix and set it on 82 deg. F. (I haven't checked this thermostat for accuracy with a thermometer yet.) I'd finished planting all 50 clove seeds, brown or green, before I went to bed on November 13.

I left the mini greenhouse mostly undisturbed for the next three weeks when I found three seeds had sprouted. Unfortunately, all or almost all of the brown seeds had grown a fuzzy white mold. At this point, I threw out all of the brown seeds. I kept eight bright green seeds (including the three sprouts) and three more that were mottled green. I could not see any mold growing on any of these seeds. I mounted a 25 Watt spiral fluorescent light directly above the three sprouts, touching the top of the greenhouse roof. I boosted the thermostat to 85 deg. F.

The three sprouts were entirely bright green. At first, all I could see was a pair of cotyledons on a root stalk. They had pushed a quarter inch or so above the soil surface and had spread apart like butterfly wings. A couple of times each day, I opened the greenhouse. (Like I could help myself!) The heat of the mat causes condensation to form on the clear roof of the greenhouse. If you flip it carefully, you can collect this condensation. I used the condensation water to moisten the soil around the sprouts and seeds as needed.

By December 13, no further seeds had sprouted. As far as I could tell, none of the eight seeds that had not sprouted were showing any signs of progress. I decided to examine them; I pulled them up. All but one had an entirely brown radicle, and the tip of that remaining radicle was brown. None of the brown seeds or the seeds with an entirely brown radicle ever developed any roots. The one seed with a brown tipped radicle had formed a second tiny root. There is a very slim chance I did not disturb this second root when I replanted it, so I guess it's possible I'll get one more sprout. I'm not holding my breath.

Then I examined the three seeds that had sprouted (visually--without uprooting them, of course!). One grew its stalk from the normal bud between the cotyledons. This stalk started off bright red. As it grew, the tip faded to orange and the stem turned green. On the other two, the central bud had been damaged and had turned brown. (I mean it--these things are tender!) On either side of this bud, in the crotch between the bud and cotyledon, tiny red nubs formed. These nubs developed into stalks over the next few days. One looks like it will have two stalks, the other just one. Developmentally, these two are far behind the one growing from the central bud.

What have I learned?

1. Pay extra for overnight shipping. Do not let the package linger in the cold for a second--sign for it if you must.

2. I won't bother planting seeds with solid brown radicles or cotyledons. They'll just get moldy.

3. I'll try not to use as much water to start with next time. Instead, I'll open the greenhouse for a daily misting until the soil seems moist enough. I'll use boiled and cooled rain water instead of well water.

4. I won't bury the seeds as deeply. I'll slice plenty of room for the radicle into the surface of the soil and gently, very gently, press the radicle end down, leaving most of the seed on top of the potting mix.
5. Leave the seeds alone for longer than a month. One more seed might need to regenerate its root and could sprout later. You never know.